I'm beat and when your beat you always think crazier things than you usually do. This is certainly the busiest time for paddle sports reps., which means when you are living in a truck in New England for a few weeks, during swell season, you are surfing at sunrise and sunset to still get gobs of work done during the day.
So yesterday I drag myself out of the truck at 6:00am, after two sessions the prior day, and see what the Atlantic is spinning. So as I paddle out somewhere in Rhode Island in the Capella 161, wrong swell direction for the stand up board, I get to thinking...the experience of wave riding and hanging in the line up can be a lot like eating. So hear me out. For some folks paddling out is like the family BBQ, a social event. They hang around around, chat, laugh with friends, grab a burger(wave) then hang out for awhile longer till they are hungry again. Just soaking it all in. For some it is like they're a fish, keep putting food in that bowl and they'll eat till they die. It's like a marathon or something, they are out there all day? Then there is the "Fine Dining" crowd. This bunch will sit outside the entire session, letting one good wave after another go by just waiting for "the one." Like trying to make sure the chicken matches the wine selection just perfectly before they will eat.
For me, surfing waves has always been like buffet style eating. You get in there and you check out the scene, what's going to get eaten in what order and who's going to be looking to cut you in line as you get to the crab legs. Once you got that sorted it's game on, get as much in as you can as quick as you can, I mean I got things to do after this. Then of course, once you are stuffed, there is the desert table. You got to find the strength to walk out with that ice cream cone and surfing is the same way. You got to wait it out for the gem wave, sitting out there with the "Fine Diners" waiting for that one bomb to take to the beach.
No matter how you eat, and who knows you may have your own style I didn't cover, like a good meal a killer session will always leave you feeling full. But instead of your gut it's your soul that just seems ready to explode.